Tucked away in the charming village of Trépail, Southeast of the Montagne de Reims, Champagne Léclapart is driving a quiet revolution in the universe of Champagne.
This small, family-owned estate is where David Léclapart earned his cult status among champagne enthusiasts and purists alike, crafting some of the most remarkable biodynamic bottles of the appellation.
Trépail, where David has biodynamically farmed his small holdings of vines, is an anomaly in the Montagne de Reims. A Chardonnay haven, it stands as a rare jewel in a region where Pinot Noir’s dominance casts a long shadow. But this geographical quirk is what telegraphs the very identity of Léclapart’s portfolio.
As the driving force behind Champagne Léclapart, he has transformed the estate into a beacon of biodynamic and organic winemaking, embracing the belief that the vineyard’s health and vitality are crucial to producing champagnes of pristine precision and purity.
Ironically, as natural as David Léclapart is in owning his craft today, winemaking was not initially his instinctive path. Although born into a family deeply rooted in the Champagne industry, following his father’s footsteps was not a given for him. Things changed when he attended l’École d’Agrobiologie de Beaujeu in Beaujolais and was introduced to biodynamic agriculture and microbiology. His deepening connection with the land, the environment and a growing passion for biodynamic viticulture brought David back to Champagne. He held a short tenure at Champagne Leclerc Briant before returning to the family estate. Upon his father’s death in 1998, he took over the reins of the Maison immediately converting the winery to biodynamic farming, ultimately carving out a distinct vision for himself.
A staunch believer in minimal intervention winemaking David’s modus operandi anchors around four core principles: Purity, Energy, Pleasure and Ecology. This belief is reflected in every aspect of his process, from the vineyard to the bottle. For him the best wines are those that allow the vineyard’s true character to shine through, unaltered by excessive manipulation in the cellar. Taking a hands-off approach, David relies on native yeasts for fermentation, zero dosage sans added Sulphur dioxide, no filtration or cold stabilization; on allowing malolactic fermentation to occur organically, and on letting the wine evolve naturally without the use of additives or fining agents.
David Léclapart channels the authentic spirit of his vineyards through the prism of his vintage-driven approach – his signature style. He works with nature’s rhythms and allows the vineyard to inform his decisions, letting the distinct characteristics of every harvest shape the voice of his wines, weaving nature’s own rhythm into every bottle. This vintage-centric philosophy extends beyond just a technical approach—it's a deep respect for the idea that Champagne is not a commodity, but a living expression of nature’s ever-changing conditions.
David Léclapart has indisputably become the archetype of a new philosophy in Champagne— an advocate for wines of personality, quality and precision, wines of place that speak the language of the season — placing him at the forefront of a broader movement that is continuously changing the narrative in Champagne.
In David’s hands, Champagne becomes not just a drink, but a unique experience — one that connects us to the terroir, nature, time, and to the artistry of this biodynamic maestro. Champagne then becomes a canvas, where each vintage is a work of art painted with the brushstrokes of nature.
I first met David last year at the Printemps des Champagnes in Reims. To taste the full breadth of his exquisite catalog was not just an unforgettable experience but a privileged treat with every cuvée prodigiously reflecting the precision and passion that defines his work.
Reconnecting with him months later, I invited him to join me for an interview to gain a deeper understanding of his philosophy, winemaking process, and the principles that have guided his rise as one of Champagne’s most respected and forward-thinking biodynamic producers.
Champagne Léclapart is a family-run Champagne House. As the third-generation winegrower what does the legacy of this family know-how represent?
I would say that the legacy of this know-how is mastering the skills of the vine through the marketing stage. Evidently each generation brings its value. I would say that my contribution to this heritage focuses on refining the winemaking process and increase export sales.
How did your wine journey begin?
I went off the beaten path in that I do not have a classical formation when in comes to wine studies. I earned my “baccalaureat” majoring in socio-economic and went on to study at the university. But nothing was going the right way. It was not until I developed an interest for the vine that things changed in my favor. The turning point was when I read a book by Dr. Catherine Kousmine “Soyez Bien dans votre Assiette” and saw an interview of her by filmmaker Coline Serreau that my awareness about agriculture got awakened. I then asked myself “What can I do that is respectful and good for the soil and the vines?” And that led me to crafting wine.
You worked at Leclerc Briant before returning to the family estate to take over the reins. What did that experience bring you?
I worked at Lecler Briant for two years in 1995 and 1996. I oversaw biodynamics tests and trials. The test area was 2 hectares 20, almost the same as my parents. And since I did a good job, I realized that I could do the same on the family estate.
You are in Trépail in the Montagne de Reims on a vineyard of about 3 hectares spread over some 22 plots. How does the identity of the terroir express itself in your champagnes?
Every terroir in Champagne is unique and within each terroir you find micro-terroirs.
The general weather conditions in Trépail is cold and humid because we are slightly more elevated than the other villages in the Montagne de Reims. We’re also closer to the forest which brings more humidity. And this cold/humid duo brings tonicity and tones of anise in the wine. In addition, being close to the forest, which bears a lot of silex, you also find smoky notes. Through my champagnes we realize that within a terroir there are evidently micro-terroirs since each plot is sensitive to and influenced by certain elements such as the wind, humidity, heat etc., and that will be translated in my approach to vinification.
Of all your champagnes which one would you say captures the most the spirit and culture of the house?
It is difficult to pick one. All my champagnes have a reason to exist. But if I really were to choose one that captures the spirit, then I would probably go with the last one which came out in 2012 and which name is l’Aphrodisiaque. Why? Because it is the product of a team effort; because my wife came up with this beautiful name; and mostly because it was such a difficult year, I was completely discouraged yet I kept believing in myself, in what I was doing, in my passion and that faith allowed me to transcend obstacles during harvest time to produce a magnificent wine. For that L”Aphrodisiaque truly represents the essence and spirit of the house.
Your vines are cultivated biodynamically. You are Ecocert and Demeter certified.
How does biodynamic agriculture impact and influence the quality of your champagnes?
From 1998 until 2020 I have been certified Ecocert and Demeter. After that, I felt the need to leave Demeter to join Biodyvin, a group strictly focused on viticulture and only made of winegrowers practicing biodynamic farming. I thought this was more in tune with our specificity and with the constraints posed by climate change.
Biodynamics impacts the quality on all levels. But most importantly it increases quality.
The first thing I noticed was that the aromatic expression and breadth are significantly more important. Also, the expression of the terroir is more refined and precise. And the density on the palate has elegance and depth. These are things that have marked me because when my father was making wine before, I never found those qualities as he was working in more traditional manner with chemicals. Today, the quality is amplified along with the music of the wine, the vine and the terroir. Biodynamics accomplished 3 of my 4 principles: with biodynamics I manage to access the purity of wine, its energy and thus provide maximum pleasure when drinking it.
What motivated you to pursue biodynamic practices?
First, for my own pleasure. Secondly, simply for practical purposes because I do not have the space to store reserve wines. It is also to follow my vintages in a sensible way as they are never the same year after year. With that approach we can see how the vine translates the climate in the expression of the wine. I find it fascinating. We truly witness the impact of all the elements that influenced the vine throughout the viticultural season. It is of course a riskier proposition because we are dependent on the vagaries of the weather.
Where does this choice to name all your champagnes with a word starting with the letter A come from?
It is true that all my champagnes start with the letter A. It was voluntary because when I came back to the estate following my father’s passing, I told myself it would be a blank page. My father was solely producing one wine which was a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir sourced from the same plots. So for me this was to be the start of a new adventure and since we’re talking about the beginning I thought “A” being the first letter of the alphabet I would start with it.
My goal was to express everything that I was feeling in my work through names like “l’Amateur” which means “the one who loves, the one who seeks”, “l’Artiste” is the one who seeks beauty, or “L’Apôtre” the one who defends an opinion. And then the other names came to me little by little according to circumstances.
How do you see Champagne Léclapart evolve through time and engage the next generation?
I’m very confident when it comes to the next generation because I have two sons who are extremely motivated and inspired by what I do and the philosophy I live by. They share my vision and they too aspired to do great work to produce beautiful wines. The one thing that worries me the most is the weather which varies drastically from one year to the next. Seasons are dizzyingly unpredictable. In 2024, the amount of rain we got was horrible. That is my main concern and we’re going to have to rapidly find solutions to adapt to climate disruptions.
What legacy do you hope to leave to Champagne?
For me it is a bit pretentious to say that I am leaving a legacy. More humbly, I hope to leave an example. There are many paths one can take to elaborate quality wines and evidently the one I chose is not the easiest one, but it is the one that stimulates me intellectually and gives me the most pleasure. I have an infinite love and passion for the work I do – to be able to contemplate nature and see how the vine grows in harmony with all the cycles that surrounds and influences us provides me with immeasurable joy.
What is your most memorable champagne moment?
For me it is not just one moment but several ones – memorable moments always around celebrations. Celebrations with friends during New Year’s Eve spent dancing and sharing laughter; celebrations during harvests; celebrations for birthdays. Champagne is the ideal drink to put your mind in a lively mood, to bring joy and happiness and to make you sparkle like our wine.
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